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The future of conservation is with empowered communities

Exploring community conservation initiatives (and national parks) in Northern Pakistan

By Plateau Perspectives

September 14^th, 2022

Northern Pakistan is renowned around the world for its most extraordinary mountain landscapes!

The Himalaya, Hindu Kush and Karakoram ranges all meet here in a complex but unique and beautiful jumble of rocks and snow, high mountains and green valleys, and rich communities and cultures.

We came here both for the sheer enjoyment of seeing and learning from this beautiful land with its diverse mountain peoples, and to visit some friends from around 30 years ago when as a younger man I assisted for a summer as research assistant with a wildlife study on golden marmots, Marmota caudata, in Khunjerab National Park.

We also hoped to identify specific mountain development contexts and local communities where we could, if deemed helpful, develop partnerships for future collaborations.

With my colleague and cousin, Judi Cameron, I set out from Islamabad in the monsoon rain one early morning, mid July. Little did we know at that time the extent to which the unusually heavy rains would be devastating the country but a month later...

Along the way, we met long-standing friends and colleagues as well as new acquaintances. We greatly enjoyed their kind hospitality and did our best to reciprocate with friendship – not wishing to over-promise about the future, yet hopeful that this would not be the last trip in the region.

Batura Sar (or Batura I) is the highest peak of Batura Muztagh, the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram range. It is the 25th-highest mountain on Earth.

We began our travels in the Chitral District (Lower and Upper) of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province, commonly abbreviated as KPK, in the northwestern region of the country. Following this, we drove eastward to Gilgit-Baltistan province, or GB, with most our time being spent in Upper Hunza, also known as Gojal.

All these areas are within the area shown as dark green on the map shown at left – the high, rugged mountains in Pakistan's far north.

Source: https://www.worldatlas.com/maps/pakistan

The photographs below aim to provide brief visual insights into some of the rugged mountain regions and communities that we visited. Through our meetings and discussions both formal and informal, along with our own direct observations as well as drawing on published materials, a picture of the history and success of local community conservation initiatives has begun to emerge.

Of course there are many challenges that still remain, but an excellent foundation has already been laid and many people and institutions -- as well as local communities themselves -- continue to support and advance good, often innovative, conservation measures that simultaneously strengthen and aid people.

It is this mix of community-oriented work, led by local communities and with joint conservation and local development aims, that will most certainly bring us toward the sustainability outcomes that are needed by all.

In the end, protecting biodiversity will help strengthen local to global stakeholders alike in the current climate crisis. And when empowered and supported to lead in the conservation and sustainable use of their traditional lands and natural resources, local communities bring for us all the greatest likelihood of successful biodiversity conservation. Thus, for everyone's sake, local communities who have long cherished their homelands are in fact the best allies – even global leaders – for nature conservation.

Arriving in Chitral

In Chitral town we met many friends and colleagues, and from there we also visited the Chitral Gol National Park, two of the three Kalash valleys, as well as the Garam Chasma valley and hot springs.

Deodar cedars with the Hindu Kush mountain range in background, as seen upon entering Lower Chitral through the Lowari tunnel enroute from Islamabad to Chitral

Deodar cedar in Chitral Gol National Park

Meeting colleague Naveed Iqbal in Chitral, enjoying tea together at Hindukush Heights overlooking Chitral town (credit: Judi Cameron)

https://www.oneearth.org/species-of-the-week-markhor/ — Markhor is the national animal of Pakistan (also known as the screw-horned goat), seen here in a community conserved area on the northern outskirts of Chitral town

Agricultural fields in Ayun village, south of Chitral town

Pleasant evening with Captain Siraj Ulmulk and his wife, owners of Hindukush Heights overlooking Chitral town

Evening spent with Masood ul Mulk, a well-known expert on humanitarian aid and regional economic development, along with Aziz Ali other colleagues and friends – at his Ayun residence

Enroute to Mastuj

Stark mountain landscape, road to Upper Chitral

Mastuj and Upper Chitral

We were warmly welcomed in Mastuj by the family of a close friend – allowing us, through them, a glimpse into the lives and many relations of families and communities in the Upper Chitral district.

Tirich Mir (7,708 m) in evening light – highest mountain of the Hindu Kush range, and highest mountain in the world outside of the Himalayas–Karakoram range

Music played for the fans at informal polo match in Mastuj

Family party in Mastuj on the eve of a wedding (credit: Judi Cameron)

Family of the groom viewing the gifts that will be given to the bride

Large family gathering on eve of wedding

Up the Yarkhun Valley

Travelling northward up the Yarkhun Valley highlighted for us some of the challenges posed by mountain environments, all the more so under climate change. Melting snow resulting from an unusually warm summer was leading to multiple landslides, blocking roads as well as hindering hydroelectric power production (through siltation) and destroying homes and agricultural fields.

Building and repairing roads in Upper Chitral never ends...

Rugged landscapes abound in Upper Chitral

Yarkhunlasht Village

Shah Dok (6,320 m) as seen from Yarkhunlasht village

Irrigated fields in village across fromYarkhunlasht

Broghil National Park

The Broghil National Park (BNP) was recently established, but still without an agreed management plan. Multi-stakeholder discussions are underway. Much needs to be protected, including large areas of high altitude peatland, but fair and equitable ways must be found to move forward. The processes of engagement are as important for achieving successful outcomes from negotiations as the (eventual) actual decisions themselves. Fostering and strengthening genuine partnerships is essential for long-term success of national parks.

Broghil and Yarkhun village council

During our time in Yarkhunlasht, we were honoured to be invited (unexpectedly) to attend and contribute in a small way to the proceedings of a village council meeting. A new chairperson was appointed on this occasion and widespread mobilisation of the local communities was evident.

Spending time with the chief of police and head of the Chitral Scouts post in Yarkhunlasht

Discussions during village council meeting

More participants at village council meeting... (credit: Umar Rafee)

Group photo on the occasion of the appointment of new chairman of the Broghil and Yarkhun Village Council, Umar Rafee

Enroute to Gilgit

From Upper Chitral district we then transitioned over to Gilgit Baltistan province. Both natural and human landscapes continued to astound us as we crossed Shandur Pass, making our way on to Gilgit.

Uppermost limit of irrigation canals on the Shandur-Gilgit road

Walking along the edge of Shandur Lake in Shandur National Park

Domestic livestock in the upper reaches of Gilgit River

Powerful geological forces raised sedimentary layers into striking vertical strata

Enjoying the landscapes along the way...

Gilgit River carving its way through the mountains

Bridges are lifelines in the mountain regions

The roads are often carved into the mountain sides

Gilgit and Hunza on the Ancient Silk Road

Following several chance encounters in Gilgit, an evening meal with fellow academics, along with some rest from the previous 10 days on the road... we continued to travel along the well-known Karakoram Highway toward the capital of Hunza, Karimabad. Here we were following the ancient Silk Road, which still can be seen in some sections high up on cliff faces overlooking the river ways.

Impromptu meeting with friends and colleagues from Rupani Foundation and Karakoram International University, at the Serena Gilgit Hotel

Wooden bridge and mountain rock path – remains of the ancient Silk Road from China

One of the original Silk Roads – carved from the exposed rock faces, far above the Hunza valley floor

Baltit Fort, founded in the 8th century and inhabited by the Mir or ruler of Hunza until 1945

Altit Fort and in particular the Shikari tower is around 1100 years old – the oldest monument in Gilgit–Baltistan

Lady Finger Peak, as seen from the Eagle's Nest high above Altit Fort

Altit Fort and surrounding village seen from above

Local development associations

Each village in Hunza has its own development association. Mobilisation and empowerment have been central in development programming for several decades, providing the necessary foundation upon which local communities now are themselves deciding and developing their own futures.

Kitchen with cooking equipment and utensils in Baltit Fort

Traditional home in Gulmit village in Gojal, or Upper Hunza

One of 12 women that produce traditional carpets as part of a local association in Gulmit village

Drying apricots on rooftops in Altit village

Hand woven carpets produced by Wakhi women in Gulmit village

Wakhi women make and sell traditional hand-woven carpets in Gulmit village

Passu Glacier in Upper Hunza (Gojal)

Passu Cones – one of the most spectacular views on the Karakorum Highway – also know as the Passu Cathedral, rising to 6,106 m

Looking back toward Hunza River and the Karakoram Highway

Mountain trail hanging above Passu Glacier

Day trek with friends, including our host Meharban Karim and fellow guests Nasser Ali Khan and Shahjahan Sayed – bringing us spectacular views and great memories

Khunjerab National Park

The Khunjerab National Park (KNP) was established in 1975 with the main purpose of conserving the highly endangered Marco polo sheep, a sub-species of argali sheep. Unfortunately this has not been achieved to the extent desired, yet many other wildlife species are benefiting. At the same time, it was noted that a large portion of the national park is overlapping with high mountain valleys that are the long-term traditional lands of some communities... But even apart from formal protected areas, communities still play a fundamental role in conservation, and in some instances they have developed their own mechanisms for monitoring and protecting their wildlife, including hunting schemes, working collaboratively with a range of government agencies and other national and international partners.

Shimshal Road

The future of conservation is with empowered communities

One community that has developed its own strong institutional systems to advance local development and conservation simultaneously is Shimshal village. Shimshal is accessed by one of the most infamous (dangerous) mountain roads in the world – the road having been built over a period of 18 years, largely by the community itself and mostly by hand.

Bridge over the Hunza River, leading into Shimshal Valley

Repairing the road that washed out overnight

First attempt to drive over a stretch of road repaired by community members

Construction of the road to Shimshal took 18 years, finally completed in 2003

Women and livestock walking along road near Shimshal village

Landslide that destroyed the original Shimshal settlement, many years back...

Shrine in memory of Shams Tabriz, the Persian Sufi poet and mystic credited with being the spiritual mentor of Rumi

Shimshal Village

Traditional Shimshali ways consider the land according to 6 main categories, ranging from the town itself and irrigated agricultural lands to central and peripheral rangelands, to core areas reserved for wildlife, to the highest mountain areas with uninhabited rugged wilderness. One of the community associations was created to help 'translate' such traditions in order to better communicate and liaise with other local and international stakeholders involved with forests, wildlife, and national parks.

Shimshal Nature Trust is an indigenous institution rooted in a thriving and dynamic culture that links the local ecology and society. It has deployed identity, traditional knowledge, science, and institutional innovation to adapt to outside challenges without destroying local commons management. (source)

With Aman Ullah, Didar Karim and Shaheen Baig in Shimshal's Lupghar summer pastures (c. 4,200 m)

Lupghar Pasture

Hiking up the very steep path to Lupghar summer pastures was exhausting – but also exhilarating (once we recovered!), and deeply informative about the pastoralist aspects of Shimshali livelihoods.

Setting out on hike up to the Lupghar pastures

Base camp for mountaineering expedition to Lupghar Sar, which at 7,200 m is 108th on the list of world tallest mountains

Hiking to the summer pastures, with Lupghar Sar in background (credit: Shaheen Baig)

The team (from left to right): Marc Foggin, Shaheen Baig, Judi Cameron, Aman Ullah, Jaffer, and Didar Karim

A well-earned tea break! – overlooking the long glacier leading to Distaghil Sar, whichc at 7,885 m is the highest mountain in Shimshal Valley and 19th-highest mountain on Earth.

Lupghar herders

Shimshali herders bringing sheep and goats in for the night

Early morning departure to the high summer pastures

Morning pastoral scene in the Shimshal region

Lupghar video

(short video under development)

Pakistan-China border

Mountain glacier near the border with China

Toward the end of our travels, we returned again to Passu – staying at the lovely Sarai Silk Route Hotel – and then drove once again along the Karakoram Highway, all the way to the Chinese border. We saw my 'old friends' aka golden marmots along the way, as well as some yak and several other tourists, too!

Last post in Pakistan and world's highest ATM

Batura Glacier Trek

In our final days, we trekked ~25 km along the Batura Glacier, 7th longest non-polar glacier in the world, all the way to the base of Batura Sar – the highest peak of the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram and 25th-highest mountain on Earth.

Striking landscape with 57 km long Batura Glacier (credit: Judi Cameron)

Team members: Judi Cameron, Mudasir Aziz, Ali Shafa, Moussa, and Muhammad Alvi

Livestock in the Yashpirt summer camp below the dramatic Batura Wall, dominated by the world's 25th highest mountain Batura Sar (7,795 m)

Herders from Passu and from nearby Hussaini village both graze their livestock in this glacial valley, each on their respective sides according to long-standing agreement between the two communities.

Similarly both communities have taken responsibility to protect all wildlife under their jurisdiction, following the broadly agreed approaches of local ‘community-based hunting conservancies’ in which quotas are strictly enforced and 80% of profits from the fees return to the communities themselves.

Trekking along the glacier to the base of Batura Sar (7,795 m), we are walking beneath the massive Batura Wall with its impressive ridgeline extending over 35 km without dropping below 6,100 m.

Returning home...

Finally, a month has come and gone... and it is time for us to make our way back to Islamabad and then onward, each of us to our own homes, one in Scotland and the other in Canada.

Pondering the future

There have been many achievements over the past several decades in the mountain areas of northern Pakistan in terms of development as well as wildlife conservation, particularly with more inclusive approaches through community associations. Yet in many places poor road conditions still limit access to services, mountain hazards and the grave risk of climate-induced disasters are constantly a part of everyday life (as seen in the on-going devastating floods across much of the country), and relations between local communities and formally established national parks must still be improved in several instances. However, new ways are being found – both locally and around the world.

Next steps

The necessary information, knowledge, insights and experience are already present, and many innovative individuals and institutions are committed and seeking to strengthen and build resilience in these fragile regions.

Sprained ankle aside (on the Batura Glacier trek)... we look forward to returning and collaborating on new ventures together with local partners in Chitral and Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan, in the future.

Back home, and recovering from sprained ankle...

Special thanks are due to the following people for their kind assistance and insights along the way: Meharban Karim and his whole team at Explore Pakistan based in Passu, along with Aziz Ali Khan, Captain Siraj Ulmulk, Umar Rafee and Ajaz Ahmed (in Chitral), and Muzaffar Uddin, Aman Ullah, Jalaluddin Shah, Jamil Uddin and Zafar Khan (in Gilgit Baltistan). We also note with appreciation the time spent we were able to spend with Wendy Gilmour and Amanda DeSadeleer (Canadian Embassy) and Muhammad Ismail (ICIMOD) while in Islamabad at the beginning and end of this exploratory trip. Many other people also welcomed and aided us in many different ways – and though unnamed here, for these friends too we are extremely grateful and extend our heartfelt thanks.

To cite: Foggin, J.M. (2022) The future of conservation is with empowered communities: Exploring community conservation initiatives (and national parks) in Northern Pakistan. Ardgay, Scotland: Plateau Perspectives. Available at: https://stories.plateauperspectives.org/northern-pakistan

Footnotes

This 'photo journal' is an informal visual summary of an exploratory trip undertaken by Marc Foggin and Judi Cameron to the high mountain regions of northern Pakistan in July-August 2022, as part of Plateau Perspectives' commitment to supporting grassroots initiatives in community-based conservation and sustainable development.